A Movement To Reform Fashion
4-1-20 – After cancelling or postponing orders worth at least $170 million in Bangladesh alone, H&M reverses its position and agrees to #PayUp for all completed and in-process orders placed before the pandemic on time and in full. The company was among the first to make a public commitment to #PayUp.
KEEP WORKERS SAFE
2-3-21 – H&M has not agreed to Action 2: Keep Workers Safe. The brand has not signed onto the Severance Guarantee Fund and has not met our demand for direct relief for workers. Through correspondence with our campaign, the company claims it’s working to get direct relief to garment workers impacted by the pandemic through the ILO Call to Action, but the Call to Action has to date released a staggeringly insufficient sum of money (less than $200 million to just four countries) to workers after eleven months of existence. Although H&M says it has donated over $2 million to what it calls “Covid implications,” it’s unclear how much of that money went to garment workers, much less to direct relief for food and other necessities.
2-1-21 – H&M has failed to Keep Workers Safe. Jeyasre Kathiravel, a 20-year-old garment worker at an H&M supplier factory in Tamil Nadu, India was allegedly raped and murdered by her supervisor. Factory union leaders and labor rights groups, including the Asia Floor Wage Alliance, say that Jeyasre was being harassed for months prior to her death, and that H&M failed to intervene to protect her against gender-based violence.
7-1-21 – In alignment with its commitment to the Transparency Pledge, H&M discloses all of its tier 1 cut and sew factories. The brand is also starting to go above and beyond this basic ask, as it also discloses around 70% of it’s tier 2 (fabric producers) suppliers and thus receives a yellow slash to indicate progress in this area.
To receive a “YES” for Go Transparent on the PayUp Fashion Tracker, H&M must a) additionally disclose the remainder of its tier 2, tier 3 (fiber and yarn producers) and tier 4 (raw materials) suppliers; b) disclose the wages of the lowest-earning workers at each factory and c) share audit and remediation reports publicly, and make these findings available to the garment workers in the audited factories.
SIGN ENFORCEABLE CONTRACTS
8-25-21 – H&M leads in negotiating and signing onto a strong new enforceable Accord agreement on workplace safety. The agreement meets all of our demands, including individual accountability for brands, an independent Secretariat, and expansion into new countries. Thus, we’ve given H&M the designation of “Brand Meets Some Conditions” for meeting part of this demand. To receive a “Yes” for this demand, H&M will need to overhaul their purchase order contracts to adopt the Buyer Code of Conduct, support a humane pace of production and dignified wages for makers, as one of the drivers of workplace safety disasters is brands, particularly when they force factories to produce clothing at prices that are too low to support sustainable and ethical production.
8-4-21 – H&M has made NO commitment to extend and expand the Bangladesh Accord on Fire & Building Safety, which has protected the lives of millions of garment makers in Bangladesh over eight years. They have also continued to dodge questions about their intention to sign a new agreement. They are on the negative side of our Accord Tracker.